Sauces

December 13, 2013

Magic carrots and lemon pepper chard

Carrots, chard and salmon

Ignore the boring salmon behind the curtain; its only relevance here is that I ate it.

My deepest vegetable regret is that I don’t like carrots. There, I said it. While I’m being honest about my food hangups, I don’t like bananas either, and I don’t particularly enjoy chocolate, but that’s another post entirely.

I tolerate carrots, but I dislike them enough to pick them out of dishes, request they don’t appear in my stir fry, and generally avoid them in my cooking unless they’re destined for a slow-cooked soup in which everything eventually just tastes like salt and broth.

But late last year, just to see what would happen, I planted some carrots in my sad little home vegetable patch (that one in which I grow almost nothing but bok choy.) But the carrots grew. And grew. And much to my surprise, thinking I’d harvest some piddly little stalks and use the greens for compost, come April I pulled up a half pound of delicate, multi-colored carrots. And realized I had no idea what to do with them.

Garden fresh carrots

My own proud carrot harvest. Thanks for the photo, Mom!

Enter Terry Walters’ book Clean Start (of cilantro pesto fame,) and my life changed forever. Yes, a little dramatic, but in its pages I found carrots that I liked. Carrots that I would choose over other foods. Of course it helps I made the recipe with young, garden-fresh carrots, but the simple sauce they’re coated in works some kind of magic that I can only begin to understand. So I share my adaptation with you, in hope that you too can enjoy the best carrots of your life. Oh, and some lemon-pepper Swiss chard too—not life-changing, but a great side dish.

MAPLE-MUSTARD AND TAHINI GLAZED CARROTS
Serves 2
Time: Quick (<25 minutes)

Ingredients
1/2 lb. young, fresh carrots, trimmed (small carrots from the farmers’ market, not adult carrots cut into ridiculous shapes and called “baby”) — young carrots just need to be scrubbed well, no need to peel
1 tbsp maple syrup
1 tbsp good whole grain mustard (I used Inglehoffer Stone Ground, my favorite)
1 heaping tsp tahini
1 tsp lemon juice

Instructions

  1. Heat 1-2″ of water (enough to cover your carrots) in a wide, shallow pan until simmering.
  2. Meanwhile, stir the syrup, mustard, tahini and lemon juice together in a small bowl. Set aside.
  3. Simmer the carrots in the pan for 6-10 minutes, until tender but still a little firm.

    Carrots simmering in a pan

    Little cuties.

  4. Drain the carrots, then add them back to the pan over medium heat. Toss them in the sauce and saute till the tahini in the sauce starts to dry and get a little crumbly, just a couple of minutes. Salt lightly and serve.

LEMON-PEPPER CHARD AND COUSCOUS
Serves 2
Time: Quick (<25 minutes)

Ingredients
1 bunch Swiss chard, cut into strips
   Kale, spinach or arugula would also work well here. Adjust cooking times to suit.
1 tbsp salted butter
1 tbsp lemon juice, plus more to serve
   Not only is citrus tasty with greens, but studies suggest that the Vitamin C
can help you absorb the calcium locked up in most greens.
Salt and lots of pepper
1/3 cup whole wheat couscous (dry), cooked according to package instructions

Instructions

  1. Heat the butter over medium in a saute pan till melted. Add the Swiss chard and cook, stirring till just wilted. Add the juice, salt and pepper.
  2. Turn the heat to low, cover the pot and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, till the stalks are tender.
  3. Stir the chard into the cooked couscous, drizzle with a little extra lemon juice and serve.

Eventually I will find many more carrots in my CSA basket, and while I’m sure they’ll make their way into smoothies and overcooked soups, I’m glad to be armed with a recipe I couldn’t do without. What about you—do you have any recipes that have changed your mind about a food you once snubbed?

Kale chips and lamb
December 4, 2013

Smelly food is the best food (or, Apple-Glazed Lamb with Blue Cheese and Kale Chips)

It seemed only appropriate after an afternoon discussing the finer points of the Brassica family (yes, I’m back on that) I would make some nice, stinky kale chips for dinner.

And since that pungent, sulfurous aroma wasn’t enough, I broiled two lamb shoulders along with it. If you’ve ever cooked lamb, you know that its rich, gamey flavor comes with an even gamier smell.

Finally, to (literally) top off the world’s smelliest dinner, I crumbled some blue cheese on each piece of lamb.

And you know what? Smelly food really is the best food. As long as it’s supposed to be smelly.

APPLE-GLAZED LAMB WITH BLUE CHEESE AND KALE CHIPS
Serves 2
Time: Quick (<25 minutes)

Ingredients

2 bone-in lamb shoulders, about 1/2 lb.
   Lamb is expensive here in the states, so I typically get small amounts of tougher cuts.
   This recipe would also be great with pork chops instead.
1/2 cup + 2 tbsp apple butter
1/4 cup chicken stock
1/2 oz crumbled blue cheese
Salt and pepper
1 head of kale, chopped coarsely
1 tbsp olive oil

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 400F.
  2. In a large bowl, toss the kale with the olive oil and some salt.
  3. Place the lamb in a small baking dish and brush on the 2 tbsp of apple butter on either side, add some salt and pepper.
  4. Spread the kale on a baking sheet and place on the center rack of the oven. Put the lamb on the bottom rack (we don’t want it to cook all the way through just yet.) Remove the kale from the oven after 12- 14 minutes.
  5. Move the lamb up to the top rack, turn off the oven and turn on the broiler. Broil on either side for 1-2 minutes, till slightly charred on the edges.
  6. MEANWHILE, stir together the rest of the apple butter and the chicken stock in a small pot and heat through.
  7. When the lamb is done, drain the pan juices into the apple butter sauce and stir.
  8. Serve the lamb with the sauce and a sprinkle of blue cheese.
December 2, 2013

Trying Something New: Kohlrabi Two Ways

I grew up in the ‘burbs, where kohlrabi was just an alien-looking bulb only seen at health food stores. I’d never given it much consideration until I became a gardener, and I started reading eloquent tributes to the strange looking vegetable on gardening blogs. And yet, this is still my first time preparing and eating it, as it’s hard to find outside of farmers’ markets.

Kohlrabi is a member of the Brassica family, which boasts fine cousins like kale, cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts. Its bulbous stem is crunchy and a little sweet, and its leaves are similar to collards or kale. Both parts are edible raw or cooked, and I chose the cooking route this evening.

KOHLRABI TWO WAYS
Serves 2
Time: Quick (<25 minutes)

Ingredients
3 small or 1 large kohlrabi stem with leaves attached
2 tbsp olive oil
1 shallot, chopped
2 tsp lemon juice
Salt and pepper
Dash of hot pepper flakes

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 400F.
  2. Peel the leaves off the stems and set aside. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the tougher outer parts of the stem, then cut the stem in half and then into semicircles about 1/8″ thick.
  3. Toss the stem pieces in 1 tbsp olive oil, salt and pepper and place on a baking sheet.
  4. Bake for 20 minutes until slightly golden around the edges (Kohlrabi does not soften much with cooking, so crispness isn’t a great indication of doneness.)
  5. Meanwhile, saute the shallot in the other tbsp of oil. Add the leaves from the kohlrabi, tearing the larger ones in half. Add the lemon, pepper flakes, salt and pepper.
  6. The leaves are done when softened and bright green.

I served this with seared salmon, with capers in butter and wine, and a little couscous. Sometimes the simple preparations are the best!

Salmon with kohlrabi and couscous

Fry a heaping tablespoon of capers in butter till browned, add a glug of white wine and you have a sauce that’s perfect on any fish.

Pork spare ribs with bok choy
December 1, 2013

Week 4, and Sweet Pork Ribs with Broiled Bok Choy

My only excuse for not posting this past week is that after the whirlwind of Thanksgiving prep, (yes, even a low-key holiday sends me into stress-ville) I’ve rather enjoyed a seriously lazy weekend.

But I’m back! With a roundup of Thanksgiving’s highlights, another week of vegetables, and a pork ribs recipe that darn near made me cry. Happy tears.

THE TURKEY DAY WITH NO TURKEY (OR PICTURES)

It felt awfully rude to halt the serving line to snap shots of heaping plates. I’ll do my best to describe the most memorable dishes and will share the recipe (not mine!) for the one we’re all still talking about.

On the dinner menu was:

Crockpot chicken

  • One whole chicken, skin removed, cooked all day in the slow cooker with water, soy sauce, balsamic vinegar and Worcestershire sauce (trust me.) So tender and delicious. Plus you can make stock after the guests leave!

Cranberry wine sauce

  • For the chicken. I emptied a 1-cup jar of homemade cranberry-pear-lemon preserves, added a half a cup of Beaujolais and a few sprigs of rosemary. Very festive.

Squash and apple soup

  • I don’t ever want to cook squash any other way again. I could eat this soup every day. Go make it right now. I used a 2 lb kabocha from the farm basket, fuji apples and 2 tsp curry powder since I had no mace and my cardamom isn’t ground.

Brussels sprouts with bacon and shallots

  • Crisp the bacon in a pan. Drain off some of the grease but leave some to saute 2 shallots and a bunch of quartered brussels sprouts till browned. Crumble the bacon and toss it with the sprouts.

Apple cinnamon corn bread

  • 1 box of Jiffy corn muffin mix, 1/2 cup apple butter, 1 can corn, 2 eggs, a little milk to thin it out and some cinnamon sprinkled on top. Bake for a few more minutes than recommended on the box.

My stress was reduced somewhat because my mother-in-law brought the most sinfully good pumpkin cake for dessert. I don’t really do dessert — the instincts just aren’t there and I’m much more comfortable in the savory realm (unless it’s jam, I make a mean jam.)

But wait! There was more. We also shared a lovely Thanksgiving breakfast with my parents, who made pumpkin muffins and had bagels ready. I brought a strata, with swiss chard from our farm basket. I think I’m still full.

WEEK 4 BASKET

I had a chat with our farmer today about how difficult this season has been. We’ve been seeing unusually high rains and weeks without any sun—and I don’t live in the Pacific Northwest. I hope that most of their customers understand that the weather’s been tough, and that we all accept some risk in buying a farm share. And that they like greens as much as we do.

Week 4 CSA basket

We can eat the heck out of some greens. Greens grow well in lower light and in almost any condition, as I know from my own garden in which nothing grows but copious amounts of bok choy. As if I needed more.

Bok choy
Collards
Baby Swiss chard
Lacinato kale
Kohlrabi
Cilantro
Asian greens
Tiny sweet peppers

We’re a little crunched for veggie-eating time because we’re taking a small vacation next weekend, so expect some serious veg heavy dishes this week.

SWEET PORK SPARE RIBS WITH BROILED BOK CHOY

These ribs are adapted from an issue of Donna Hay magazine. I can’t believe I’ve been at this for four weeks and am only just now sharing a Donna recipe — she’s a staple in our house. An Australian food stylist and cooking goddess, every one of her books and magazines is full of simple recipes that never fail to impress everyone. These ribs are no exception.

Pork spare ribs with bok choy

I wish I’d made some leftovers.

SWEET PORK SPARE RIBS
Serves 2
Time: Long (>45 minutes)

Ingredients
4 pork spare ribs
2 tbsp Hoisin sauce
2 tbsp Oyster sauce
2 tbsp sugar
1/4 cup water
1 heaping tsp Chinese 5-spice powder

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350F.
  2. Place the ribs in a shallow baking dish. Mix the next 5 ingredients in a bowl and pour over the ribs.
  3. Bake, covered with tinfoil, for 1 hour.
  4. Remove the foil, bake for another 20 minutes.
  5. Turn on the broiler to high. Broil the ribs for 2 minutes, turn and broil for another 2 minutes until edges are slightly charred and sauce has thickened.

BROILED BOK CHOY
Serves 2
Time: Quick (>25 minutes)

Ingredients
1 head baby bok choy
1 tbsp Sriracha
1 tbsp + 1 tsp peanut oil
2 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp sesame seeds

Instructions

  1. Wash and trim the bok choy. Lay out in a shallow baking dish and drizzle with 1 tsp peanut oil.
  2. When pork ribs are in the broiling stage, add the bok choy under the broiler too.
  3. After the first 2 minutes, stir the bok choy and put back under the broiler for a minute more.
  4. Meanwhile, whisk together the Sriracha, oil and vinegar in a bowl.
  5. When bok choy is done, coat with the sauce.
  6. Serve with a drizzle of sesame oil and a sprinkle of sesame seeds.

I had extra of the sauce for the pork and put it in the freezer — it would make a great glaze for chicken or tofu as well. I love versatile recipes, don’t you?

November 22, 2013

“Eggs Benedict” with lemony kale and smoked salmon

Tonight I celebrate my graduation to home cook, rather than dabbler. Tonight I poached an egg (four, actually.)

My past egg poaching attempts have looked more like egg drop soup, but armed with this great tutorial, four canning rings and some lovely farm-fresh eggs, I managed near perfect (one slightly overcooked) poached eggs.

This meal is a real powerhouse of nutritious ingredients and strong flavors. If the thought of smoked salmon makes you cringe, you could use more mild cooked salmon or even the traditional Canadian bacon. But give the smoked salmon a try—its strong flavor is well balanced by the tangy lemon and creamy sauce (says someone who could give or take smoked salmon.)

“EGGS BENEDICT” WITH LEMONY KALE AND SMOKED SALMON
Serves 2

Ingredients

Eggs Benedict
2 whole wheat English muffins, split and lightly toasted
2 tsp olive oil
1 head of kale, ribs removed and leaves torn into chunks
2 tbsp lemon juice
4 eggs
4 oz smoked salmon, sliced or shredded

Sauce
1/4 c sour cream
2 tbsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp dry dill or 1 tbsp fresh chopped
1 heaping tbsp capers

Instructions

  1. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the kale and saute till it starts to wilt. Add the lemon juice and stir. Keep cooking till kale has significantly reduced in size.
  2. Mix the sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
  3. In a sauce pan start to heat the water to poach the eggs.

    Farm fresh eggs

    Pretty speckled eggs!

  4. While eggs are poaching, place the English muffin halves on two plates. Spread each with a quarter of the kale and the salmon.
  5. When the eggs are done, carefully slide one onto each toast half. Drizzle the sauce on top and serve immediately.

    Eggs Benedict

    There’s half a head of kale under there, believe it or not. You can tell the one on the right is a little overdone.

It’s been a tough week for dinners, so the only other recipe I have to share isn’t my own — plugging Simply Recipes again for their stellar sweet potato fries, which we had with chicken and salad.

Chicken with sweet potatoes and salad

I blackened the fries a little but they were as addictive as the recipe promises.

That’s a chicken thigh up there, the perfect protein in my opinion. Not only are they flavorful and inexpensive, they’re already in perfectly-sized portions, typically cooking to about 3-4 oz. All they need is a little salt and pepper to cook, or they also lend themselves to any spice or sauce.

Stay tuned while I try to cram a few more veggies into this week!